Wine-dark seas, lemon groves and stacks of pastel-hued homes perched perilously on a stretch of craggy shoreline. It's not a dream: you're on Italy's Amalfi Coast.
Now your solely fear is reaching its most gorgeous locations. Perhaps you’re keen on driving abroad; perhaps you, like Jennifer Coolidge in The White Lotusharbor an Italian dream of whizzing round on a Vespa, your Peppa Pig–pink scarf fluttering within the wind.
Let's take a actuality examine. The Amalfi Coast is notoriously exhausting to navigate on account of its cliff-top roads, hairpin curves and dangerous drop-offs towards the surging sea. Driving via this vastly common area can imply coping with insane visitors, and parking is shockingly costly – if you happen to may even discover it. A scooter is handy, however provided that you're already an skilled driver.
Now right here's the excellent news: there's an in depth public transit community within the area that may get you almost wherever you wish to go, offered you intend fastidiously. As in all of Italy, the public-transport choices may be spotty – however belief me: they're nonetheless higher than driving the anarchic, razor-narrow SS163 state street in excessive season.
Other than Sorrento and Vietri sul Mare, this mountainous coast isn’t reached by Italy's practice system. However there are frequent buses and a very good fleet of speedy ferries between cities, in addition to from Naples. It should even be simpler to succeed in sure cities alongside the Amalfi when the brand new airport close to Salerno opens on July 11.
Learn on to discover ways to navigate the Amalfi Coast's greatest locations in 5 steps, with only a ticket and a smile. Flowing pink scarf optionally available.
Step 1: Create a watertight itinerary…however be real looking
Discover the correct amount of actions you may match into your time
A lot to see, so little time: imagine me, I empathize. However if you happen to're counting on public transport, it's wisest to restrict your itinerary to only a few locations, and resisting the urge to program two or extra experiences on the identical day. Listed below are the area's biggest hits, broadly so as of public transport friendliness.
The famous person coastal villages
The cities between Amalfi and Salerno are a breeze to succeed in by ferry or 5570 SITA bus (barring unexpected points). Word that the final ferry from Positano leaves within the late afternoon within the excessive season, with service diminishing within the off-season. It's greatest to plan to depart by way of SITA bus.
Ravello
Hilltop Ravello is inland, a short bus journey from Amalfi (SITA 5110). You'll should switch if you happen to're primarily based elsewhere.
The Path of the Gods
Catch the 5080 bus from Amalfi to Agerola (Bomerano), this iconic clifftop hike's start line. The hike finishes within the hamlet of Nocelle, the place you may reward your self with a lemon-stand slushie, then stroll down the (1700!) steps to Positano, and get a bus or ferry again to your base.
Coastal seashores and pure wonders
The 5570 SITA bus will take you to the Fiordo di Furore and Conca dei Marini seashores, in addition to the Grotta dello Smeraldo, a pure cave with phosphorescent inexperienced waters. I like to recommend selecting only one – whereas they're just a few kilometers aside, it may be difficult to coordinate bus schedules. My choose? When you don't thoughts tons of steps, do the Fiordo di Furore. This secluded pebble seashore's iconic arched bridge makes for an unforgettable backdrop, and the ambiance is pure pleasure.
The Sorrento Peninsula
The larger cities on the peninsula's west coast – Sorrento, Vico Equense and Castellammare – are linked by the Circumvesuviana practice line. As of September 2023, the rail line Trenitalia has elevated connections between Naples and Salern. In complete there are about 40 trains a day from Naples to Salerno, together with quick direct trains and slower trains which require a change. You'll want the SITA Nord or EAV buses to succeed in villages like Nerano, the crux of the Baia di Ieranto and Punta Campanella hikes in addition to the cease for Marina del Cantone seashore.
Right here's the place it will get difficult. Nerano's major piazzetta is the beginning of the Baia di Ieranto hike – but it surely's a 35-minute upward hike to Termini, the place the Punta Campanella hike begins, and a 20-minute downward stroll to Marina del Cantone. Like me, you could be tempted to do all of the Nerano experiences in someday – however I strongly advise in opposition to this if you happen to worth your well being. I'd advocate three discrete itineraries as an alternative.
Itinerary 1: Pack a panino alla capresemade with tomatoes and juicy mozzarella di bufala. Take the bus to Nerano, then hike to the Baia di Ieranto, a shocking cliff seashore with views of Capri.
Itinerary 2: Catch the bus to Nerano and as much as Termini to hike to Punta Campanella, the Sorrento Peninsula's southernmost level. Again in Termini, reward your self with some tacky spaghetti alla Nerano at Ristorante Eughenes.
Itinerary 3: Head to Nerano on the bus and all the way down to Marina del Cantone, the place you'll share the bay with majestic sailboats. Sit down for lunch at Mary's Seashore or Ostello le Sirene, well-known for its mermaid kitsch. (Or is it artwork?)
For more-involved experiences on the Sorrentine peninsula or inland on the Amalfi Coast, you'll have to courageous it and get behind the wheel.
Step 2: Ace your base
Be strategic and aware of your funds
Which city serves as one of the best base within the area for non-drivers? Amalfi is your most strategic selection because it has direct connections to each focal point on the coast and the Sorrento Peninsula. Sorrento and Salerno are additionally nice, as they're main bus, practice and ferry hubs. Salerno can also be near the brand new airport, Salerno Costa d'Amalfi Airport, which can begin welcoming flights from Spain, France and different elements of Italy from July 11. Shuttle buses will join from the airport to deliver passengers to close by cities.
For barely cheaper digs, think about Sant'Agnello, a village inside strolling distance of Sorrento; Atrani, a six-minute stroll from Amalfi; or Maiori, a village between Amalfi and Vietri sul Mare with good ferry service.
Step 3: Take into account the time of yr
Each season comes with a compromise
It's a sucker's sport: if you happen to go to the Amalfi Coast throughout excessive season (Easter to August) you'll combat (sure, actually) for house on the buses, but if you happen to come throughout off or shoulder season, public transit service – particularly ferries – can be drastically decreased. Irrespective of while you go, research up on transit occasions to keep away from unwelcome surprises.
Throughout excessive season, depart sufficient time in your itinerary to permit for buses falling not on time on account of insane summer season visitors, or the prospect that the bus you've been ready for below the recent solar is full and simply zips previous as you gawp helplessly. At all times have water and a charged telephone so you may observe buses and – if all else fails – name a cab.
Step 4: Get techy with it
Apps are a public transport person's pal
Make issues approach simpler by downloading the free Unico Campania app, which supplies you real-time bus and practice knowledge and (when you’ve got a European bank card) helps you to purchase tickets. Websites like ferryhopper.it or traghettilines.it and their related apps will get you a roundup of ferry occasions and tickets, too. When you can't purchase tickets on-line or by way of your telephone, you'll should go old skool and purchase bus tickets on the information brokers and tobacconists – search for the enormous T signal. You should buy ferry tickets on the port.
Step 5: Select your horse
Keep on land – or take to the ocean
Bus or ferry? The SITA bus runs late at night time and might take you to mountain villages and the coast's pure wonders. Taking the SITA is an unforgettable expertise: you'll style agony and ecstasy because the bus squeezes previous automobiles and careening scooters whereas drivers honk their horns furiously, or in warning to different autos.
When you're simply shifting alongside the coast, take the ferry, since they're much less crowded and infrequently faster, even in excessive season. And simply consider the views from the ocean as that magical shoreline comes into focus.
If I might do all of it once more:
I'd grasp driving a Vespa. Simply kidding! (Or am I?)
My greatest recommendation – other than not touring to this area throughout excessive season – is to not pack too many experiences in someday, as I did in Nerano. Simply take it sluggish: choose a spot, sip a spritz and savor the pink solar sinking into the Gulf of Naples. In spite of everything, isn't that why you got here?
