It's a marvel Île de Ré exists. For starters, this French island is crepe-flat (and its seashores are the identical coloration as pancake batter). When the swell comes rolling in alongside the west and south coasts – that is the Atlantic Ocean in spite of everything – it's obscure how the ocean doesn't swallow the island complete.
This isn't your easy fly-and-flop island – the structure right here tells the tales of rich retailers that traded Île de Ré's salt and wine for stones to construct their houses. Cycle into the guts of the island, and also you'll both end up surrounded by vineyards or on the curious criss-cross of paths raised above the salt flats, the place oyster dredgers' huts look over social gathering hat-shaped piles of salt.
Extraordinarily accessible, with a bridge linking it to La Rochelle on the mainland, it's not shocking that it's a favourite with bucket-and-spade waving French households as quickly as the vacations hit. There's a seaside for everybody, be your fashion windsurfing, paddleboarding, or hiding from the wind among the many sand dunes with e-book.
When ought to I’m going to Île de Ré?
The island is very seasonal and infrequently awash with Parisians throughout the summer season holidays. However go to in winter and it’ll really feel fairly empty; the year-round inhabitants of the entire island is beneath 18,000. There's one thing oddly magical about winter when the Atlantic storms sweep in, and because the island is linked to the mainland by a bridge, you don't want to fret about getting marooned in inclement climate. Summer season guests are within the hundreds of thousands, and the overwhelming majority arrive in July and August. The climate is reliably heat and sunny, however lodging is at a premium, and also you'll have to e-book properly prematurely.
June and September are beautiful months to go to. Lodging and actions are open for top season, and salt harvesting season (June to September) is underway.
A lot of the island's festivals happen in the summertime. Jazz au Phare (Jazz on the Lighthouse) runs for 5 days in early August on the Phare des Baleines, the lighthouse on the westernmost tip of the island. You'll need to pay to attend the principle occasions of the pageant nevertheless it runs alongside a program of free occasions, together with café concert events.
How a lot time ought to I spend in Île de Ré?
How lengthy is a chunk of string, or relatively, how a lot do you’re keen on the seaside? If you wish to vacation French-style, camp out right here for a complete month, spending lengthy, lazy days on the seaside, or pedaling languidly from oyster shack to oyster shack. For those who don't profit from the identical beneficiant vacation allowance, you may simply see the entire island in three or 4 days, and that's exploring by bike: the cycle trails are all flat.
Once I was a baby we'd go for every week. That labored properly, however I'd by no means have stated no to longer. Think about journey time to La Rochelle, the mainland metropolis from which you entry Ile de Ré. There are direct flights from the UK; from the USA you'll seemingly arrive in Paris or Bordeaux, every 2 ½ hours from La Rochelle by practice.
Is it straightforward to get in and round Île de Ré?
Biking isn't only a mode of transport right here, it's a faith. Île de Ré isn't car-free however driving isn't probably the most environment friendly method of getting from A to B; partly since parking is proscribed and infrequently very costly, and partly as a result of all the roads are pockmarked with dozens of crossings for pedestrians and cyclists, who’ve precedence. Lots of the historic little cities, reminiscent of Saint-Martin-de-Ré, have slim little cobbled streets, making squeezing by means of in an SUV worrying and ugly. There's additionally a unbelievable community of electrical shuttle buses on the island, that are utterly free for guests.
Upon arrival (by highway, through the bridge), there's a obligatory entry toll of between €8-16 Euros (US$8.45-16.90), relying on the season. This price goes in the direction of preserving the island's nature and funding unbelievable initiatives just like the free shuttle buses. There's no price for leaving. It's additionally attainable to reach by crusing boat, and you’ll deliver your bike on board.
Prime issues to do in Île de Ré
Kayak the marshes at Loix
Kayaking round Loix is a bit like parkour on water. Not as a result of it's excessive – removed from it actually, it's the right time out for households – however as a result of the always altering tides imply you could paddle up little creeks the place you'll usually want to slip your kayak down mudbanks, or wade by means of the mud, to get out once more. Canoë Salé runs guided excursions that are invaluable in such a labyrinth. From above the warren of marshes and salt flats appears to be like like a patchwork quilt.
Off the water, Loix appears to be like like one of many extra uninspiring cities on the island, nevertheless it's some of the lived in, with heaps of character. It's residence to the island's greatest bookshop, Atelier Quillet, which has an on-site café serving coffees made with domestically roasted beans. There's additionally a workshop specializing within the restoration of outdated paperwork and for a guided go to costing simply €5 (US$5.30), you’ll be able to see how they do it.
Discover the gorgeous streets of Saint-Martin-de-Ré
A fishing city with a strategic location, Saint-Martin-de-Ré got here into its personal within the Center Ages, when it was used for commerce and as a navy base. Within the seventeenth century, the well-known navy engineer Vauban fortified the city to withstand Dutch and English invasions, and most of the ramparts and imposing entrance arch are nonetheless standing at this time.
The streets look as if they've been plucked from the creativeness of an inside designer. A lot of the homes are whitewashed or pastel-colored, with brightly painted shutters and an abundance of creeping crops and bulging window bins. Alongside the outdated harbor are heaps of eating places, most specializing in seafood and a few are very upmarket. Locals head to no-frills hooked up Le Bistrot du Marin.
Study to surf at Le Bois Plage
Significantly throughout the summer season, the surf on Île de Ré tends to be fairly mild, with constant waves excellent for novices. Surf'in Ré has their surf faculty on Gros Joncs Seaside, a golden sand seaside framed by dunes and a protracted, raised picket boardwalk.
Eat oysters within the salt flats
The one factor there's greater than oyster fields on Île de Ré is vineyards, and wine and oysters make for a heady mixture. In London, the saying goes that you simply're by no means various ft from a rat. On Ile de Ré, the identical might be stated for oyster shacks. Significantly value visiting is La Cabane Océane, the place you’ll be able to eat oysters al fresco with a view over the ocean.
Flop on the sand
There's a seaside for everybody right here, whether or not your fashion is sunbathing, enjoyable with a calming glass of wine in hand, or filling your day with browsing, kite browsing, windsurfing, paddleboarding. Among the many prettiest is Trousse Chemise Seaside, which relatively oddly interprets as “Shirt Bag Seaside.” Simply offshore is a sandbank generally known as Le Banc du Bûcheron, solely seen at low tide. Arrive on the proper second and you’ll stroll out and picnic on the sandbar. Lots of the seashores have rocks within the water; pack acceptable sneakers.
My favourite factor to do in Île de Ré
It needs to be seeing the donkeys carrying pajamas in Saint-Martin-de-Ré. That is pure nostalgia, however as a child I used to be completely fascinated by the sight of donkeys wearing striped trousers.
How a lot cash do I would like for Île de Ré?
Whereas eating places and actions are inclined to value roughly the identical as on the mainland, lodging might be considerably increased, notably in the summertime holidays. Playing cards are extensively accepted, nevertheless it's a good suggestion to have some money, notably for the little oyster shacks. The next costs are based mostly on the excessive season (July-August).
-
Campsite: From €30 (US$31.65) for 2 folks with their very own tent
-
Primary room for 2: From €150 (US$158.30)
-
Self-catering residence (together with Airbnb): From €100 (US$105.50)
-
Bike rental: From €14/day (US$14.80)
-
Shuttle bus ticket: free!
-
Espresso: From €1.50 for an espresso (US$1.60)
-
Sandwich: €6-12 (US$6.35-12.65)
-
Dinner for 2: €50+ (US$52.75)
-
Beer/pint on the bar: €8 (US$8.45)
